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Wilhelm Duerer Violin Repair

This cool old fiddle is being fixed up for a very lucky guy for Christmas. This cool old fiddle is being fixed up for a very lucky guy for Christmas.
The first step is to glue up all the cracks and open seams. The first step is to glue up all the cracks and open seams.

 

The next step is planing the fingerboard.  For this I like to use my block plane with specially ground iron that excels at cutting even the toughest ebony.  I use a cloth to protect the violin from the mess it makes. The next step is planing the fingerboard. For this I like to use my block plane with specially ground iron that excels at cutting even the toughest ebony. I use a cloth to protect the violin from the mess it makes.
After the planing is done I sand and polish the fingerboard.  After the planing is done I sand and polish the fingerboard.
This poor violin had one bum peg.  You can see here that someone tried to fit it with a pen knife and it just wasn't  working.  The client decided to just replace the one peg with a non matching ebony peg.  Every old fiddle needs a lucky peg, so let's make one. This poor violin had one bum peg. You can see here that someone tried to fit it with a pen knife and it just wasn't working. The client decided to just replace the one peg with a non matching ebony peg. Every old fiddle needs a lucky peg, so let's make one.
The first thing to do is ream the old peg hole.  This makes the old hole round again and resets the taper to match my peg cutter. The first thing to do is ream the old peg hole. This makes the old hole round again and resets the taper to match my peg cutter.
This tool cuts the new peg down to fit in the freshly reamed hole for a perfect fit. This tool cuts the new peg down to fit in the freshly reamed hole for a perfect fit.
Now that the peg fits.  It's time to cut it to length. Now that the peg fits. It's time to cut it to length.
Now that's what a lucky peg end should look like.  If that nut looks a bit chunky to you, that's because it is.  I'll be fixing that in a few more slides. Now that's what a lucky peg end should look like. If that nut looks a bit chunky to you, that's because it is. I'll be fixing that in a few more slides.
Moving on to the new bridge.  Here you can see that I have already fit the feet.  A perfect fit is critical for a good sounding bridge. Moving on to the new bridge. Here you can see that I have already fit the feet. A perfect fit is critical for a good sounding bridge.
Once the string height is set I go to work carving every curve of the bridge to bring out the best tone. Once the string height is set I go to work carving every curve of the bridge to bring out the best tone.
The finished bridge on the violin. The finished bridge on the violin.
Time to get back to that unsightly nut.  The strings are too high and the shaping is sloppy. Time to get back to that unsightly nut. The strings are too high and the shaping is sloppy.
This is what it looks like after I lower the strings and clean it up with files and sandpaper. This is what it looks like after I lower the strings and clean it up with files and sandpaper.
After one last round of polishing and smidge of touch-up this violin is all ready to go home.  Here you can see it with it's brand new Bobelock case and Core Select carbon bow. After one last round of polishing and smidge of touch-up this violin is all ready to go home. Here you can see it with it's brand new Bobelock case and Core Select carbon bow.

As always I hope you have enjoyed reading this entry, and feel free to leave comments and/or questions below.

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502 W Webster Rd. Royal Oak, MI 48073